りょうよりしつ


JAPANESE NATURALLY /Mizue Sasaki

    量より質

木村:6月15日から3日間、饗宴の儀があるそうですね。どんな料理がでるのかな。
記者:日本料理だそうですよ。それも量より質ということで、鯛だけでも3,000匹を、用意するそうですから、大変でしょうね。

Ryoo yori shitsu

Kimura: Roku gatsu jyuugo nichi kara mikkakan, kyooen no gi ga aru soo desu ne. Donna ryooriga deru no ka na.
Kisha: Nihon ryoori da soo desu yo. Sore mo ryoo yori shitsu to iu koto de, tai dake demo sanzen hiki wo yooi suru soo desu kara, taihen deshoo ne.

Kimura: I understand that the court banquet will last three days starting June 15. I wonder what kind of food they'll serve.
Reporter: I hear ifll be Japanese food. Since they prize quality rather than quantity, it must be a tough job to prepare just 3,000 red snappers alone.

Ryoo yori shitsu means quality rather than quantity.
When Japanese food is served on such an auspicious occasion as the imperial wed- ding reception, tai or red snapper always plays the principal role, (tai is said to be associated with the word medetai-something happy or auspicious).
Furthermore, though red snappers bred on fish farms are available, Ryoo yori shitsu wo kangaeru nara, tennen no tai ni kagiru. (When we consider quality over quantity, wild ones are the best.)
About 2,700 people have been invited to the three-day court banquet.
Although some people say, "Konkai no ryoori wa ryoo yori shitsu dakara" (The cuisine for this coming occasion should be prepared with more importance placed on quality rather than on quantity.), I wonder how 2,700 red snappers will be prepared for each guest.
Because red snapper is usually caught not with a fishing net but with a rod and line, we cannot expect such a large haul only one day prior to the banquet Also, the fish preserved in the refrigerator do not taste as good as fresh ones.
All red snapper to be served will be equal in size with lean meat extending from the back fin to the belly.
The fish inhabit shore reef waters at a depth of 25 to 30 meters. To avoid damage they will be caught separately. Since it is impossible to catch 3,000 at once, they will be kept in a huge tank about one month before the banquet.
I have no idea who has been invited to the imperial party, but it's easy to imagine that those preparing for the event have their hands full.
Some 3,000 red snappers swimming in the tank must make a great spectacle.

The writer is a professor at Yokohama NationalUniversity.

June 12-13, 1993